Where Samoa happens.

Cultural site · Upolu · Apia

A free interactive showcase of fa'a Samoa run by the Samoa Tourism Authority on the Apia waterfront. Watch demonstrations of weaving, traditional umu cooking, kava ceremony, ie toga (fine mat) making and the closing fire-knife dance — all by Samoan elders. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday only, 10:30am–12:30pm. Donations welcome.

Cultural site · Savaii · North Coast

Eerie black plains of cooled lava on Savai'i's north coast, marking where the 1905–1911 Mt Matavanu eruption swept five villages into the sea. The roofless church — half-buried, with a single grave inside the nave that the lava is said to have flowed around — is the not-to-miss stop. Quietly haunting; the photo on this page is the actual eruption captured by Thomas Andrew in 1905.

Cultural site · Savaii · Palauli

The largest and most ancient structure in all of Polynesia — a 12-metre-tall, 61×50-metre stepped stone mound built between 1100 and 1400 AD on the Letolo Plantation in Palauli. Climb to the top for a sweeping view over the south Savai'i jungle. Pay the village fee at the plantation gate; the path can be muddy after rain.

Cultural site · Savaii · South Coast

Underground lava tube system at Paia village — knee-deep wading through dark tunnels with a guide and torches, emerging at a hidden swimming pool. Moderate physical effort, definitely not for the claustrophobic.