Where Samoa happens.

Cultural site · Savaii · North Coast

Eerie black plains of cooled lava on Savai'i's north coast, marking where the 1905–1911 Mt Matavanu eruption swept five villages into the sea. The roofless church — half-buried, with a single grave inside the nave that the lava is said to have flowed around — is the not-to-miss stop. Quietly haunting; the photo on this page is the actual eruption captured by Thomas Andrew in 1905.

Cultural site · Savaii · Palauli

The largest and most ancient structure in all of Polynesia — a 12-metre-tall, 61×50-metre stepped stone mound built between 1100 and 1400 AD on the Letolo Plantation in Palauli. Climb to the top for a sweeping view over the south Savai'i jungle. Pay the village fee at the plantation gate; the path can be muddy after rain.

Cultural site · Savaii · South Coast

Underground lava tube system at Paia village — knee-deep wading through dark tunnels with a guide and torches, emerging at a hidden swimming pool. Moderate physical effort, definitely not for the claustrophobic.