Where Samoa happens.

Beach · Upolu · Aleipata

A perfect crescent of white sand on Upolu's south-east tip, framed by the offshore islets of Nu'utele and Nu'ulua — the postcard view of Samoa. The lagoon stays calm and shallow well out from the shore; snorkel is gentle and the sunset is the kind that ends a holiday well. Beach fales and small resorts line the road behind, so you can step from your room straight onto the sand. Pay the small village fee at the kiosk on the way in.

Beach · Upolu · Lefaga

White-sand lagoon beach at Lefaga that took its name from the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot here. Reef just offshore for snorkelling, picnic fales for shade and a long stretch of empty sand that feels worlds away from Apia despite being only an hour's drive. Best at low tide for tide pools, high tide for swimming. Small village fee at the gate.

Beach · Upolu · South Coast

Volcanic black-sand beach on Upolu's south coast, reached via a short 4WD track or a 15-minute walk in from the road. Wild and rarely crowded — lava flows extend out under the water and the contrast against the surf is striking. Best at low tide; bring shoes for the rocky entry.

Beach · Upolu · East Coast

Quiet east-coast beach on Upolu with reef just offshore — sheltered swimming and gentle snorkelling. A few small fales tucked into the trees, no resorts. Worth a stop on the drive between Apia and Lalomanu.